Sunday, December 1, 2013

Tuesday, 9/17/2013, Eureka, CA, to Lincoln City, OR, via Coast Road

Well, I’m still not quite right health-wise but, I did sleep better with the use of NyQuil.  NyQuil and Advil decongestion have been my constant friends on this trip so far.  Before we left NJ, I was on a 5 day Z-pak regimen that did not kill all the bad things I caught from the ill masseuse who infected me!  It’s been over a week since I became ill and still haven’t been able to kick it.  

Up early again to check my work e-mail and take a bit of the edge off.  After reading some of the e-mails from my Canadian Sales team, I decided I really needed to stop reading my e-mail.  Was really starting to annoy me!  I was so worked up that I called my team lead just to chat him up a bit and to provide some moral support in my absence.  He, of course, was chiding me for calling him from vacation.  J  So, finally took my own advice and decided I would only cursorily peak at e-mail on my BB for the rest of the holiday!

On this particular morning the weather was overcast with steady rain making everything gray, kinda what we were expecting the weather to be more like in this region of the US and had not seen much of.  We were up, dressed, packed and in the SUV to start our days travel by 0715.  Our target destination today:  Lincoln City, OR.  Looked to be a good starting point for our next day trip to McMinnville and the Evergreen Aviation Museum, home of the Spruce Goose.

Rain would follow us for most of the 40 or so miles to Orick, a small town ~20miles south of Klamath.  As we were approaching Orick, we were thrilled to see our first large herd of Elk just roaming around the low wetlands.  No real good place to stop so we continued.  A couple of miles outside of Orick we saw a sign that purported to be a good place to see Elk in the wild so, we turned in.  Nada.  Disappointed we got back onto the Redwood Highway (101) and hadn’t driven more than a mile when we sped by a compound of small homes/bungalows fronting a relatively small grassy clearing that was packed with Elk!  I hit the brakes and did a U-turn right on the highway, which had necked down to just 2 lanes.  Fortunately, there was virtually no traffic on this particular morning to have to worry about.  We drove back to the cluster of small houses – the appropriately named Elk Meadow Cabins, located within Redwood National Park – and pulled into a dirt and gravel parking lot.  The road fronting the cottages, Valley Green Camp Rd, was cordoned off and marked ‘private’ so we didn’t continue in.  According to ‘Yelp’, the Elk Meadow Cabins are available for folks on vacation who are into nature, hiking and wildlife.   Didn’t matter… Rosie and I had front row seats to a large herd of Elk with 1 giant male and lots of females and baby Elk.  Needless to say, Rosie was in heaven and took a lot of photos.  After a few minutes, the male Elk appeared to know we were there and started gathering up his ‘flock’ and moving them away from us.  So, we left and continued on.

Outside of Orick the rain had started to subside but, that rain had turned into very heavy fog as we climbed up into the low mountains covering the 20miles to Klamath.  Visibility was less than a 1/4mile in many locations and would stay heavy until we descended out of the mountains towards the Klamath River Bridge.  The scenery when we came out of the mountains, even though it was overcast, was breathtaking.  Repairs were going on 1 lane of the Klamath River Bridge so we had to pause while opposing traffic cleared the bridge before we drove over.  Our initial reaction was to keep driving through but, we hadn’t eaten
breakfast on this morning and noticed that we passed a sign for a diner off the 1st exit right after you cross the bridge.  Rosie and I debated turning around for a couple of miles and then, what the heck, we just decided to turn around and check out the dining spot.

Boy, we were glad we went back.  J This area of the Redwoods National Park and the Klamath River area was the home of the Yurok Indian Nation, I’ll side note about them later.  As we pulled into the parking lot of the Log Cabin Diner, we noticed signs to a ‘drive-thru’ redwood… we were definitely going to find that after breakfast!  The Diner was a bit quirky in that just outside to the left of the cabin was a fenced in area that contained Emus, flightless Australian birds.  We only saw 1 but the sign on the fence indicated there were probably more. 

Inside the Log Cabin Diner, accommodations were sparse but function and yet welcoming all at the same time.  We sat ourselves.  There were a good 6-8 other souls already enjoying breakfast and the 1 waitress was doing the best she could without more help.  She eventually came over to greet us and serve coffee.  We gave her our orders and hurried off on her way.  While we waited another 4some came in and sat hear us.  They appeared to be good, older, retired friends by the way they were talking with each other.  Rosie and I eventually joined the friendly conversation, and we found out that the two couples had only just met each other at some nearby RV campground.  One couple was more local to California, L-A, while the other couple, based on their accents, was obviously from the South – Texas to be exact.  We had a very pleasant conversation all throughout our breakfast, which eventually came to all of us, and the local couple were very helpful in giving us some suggestions on things to do and see.  We would actually take their advice on 1 suggestion a bit after breakfast.  Breakfast was just fine.  We bid our goodbyes to our ‘happenstance’ friends, paid our bill and made our way back out to our SUV.

Side Note:  The Yurok, whose name means "downriver people" in the neighboring Karuk language (also called yuh'ára, or yurúkvaarar in Karuk), are Native Americans who live in northwestern California near the Klamath River and Pacific coast.  Their autonym is Olekwo'l meaning "Persons." Today they live on the Yurok Indian Reservation, on several Rancherias, including the Trinidad Rancheria, throughout Humboldt County.  The Yurok people are the largest Native American tribe in California, comprising nearly 6,000 members

Turns out the ‘Tour Though Tree’ here in Klamath was literally right around the corner from the log cabin diner.  You could walk to the entry booth from the diner’s parking lot.  We drove over to the booth – it was unattended – picked up a brochure and dropped a fiver into a box.  The honor system was in play on this day.  We weren’t sure how far we’d have to drive past the booth to the tree but, surprisingly, it was only a couple of hundred yards, max, away.  You drive straight past the booth and eventually make a right, spiral turn up into some dense forest.  Just when you start feeling as if you’re not in the right place, the path clears up some and you see the massive Redwood with a large hole in it.  We queued up behind a car driven by a gentleman who was out of that car, which was parked inside the tree, taking photos of the scene.  He was very conscientious of us waiting and had made room for our drive through within 5 mins of our arrival.  He also volunteered to take a couple of photos of Rosie and me with the SUV in the tree, which was very nice of him before he left.  The Jeep Compass we were driving just barely fit into and through the tree – no way a full size SUV would have fit through.  Rosie and I took a handful of additional photos before we got back in and drove out and away.  By the time we left there were 3 other cars queued up behind us to get in.  This was the only redwood we’d actually drive through on this trip.

As I mentioned earlier in the diner, we actually decided to drive up to a nearby overlook for some views to the mouth of the Klamath River based on the recommendations of couple we had chatted up.  Approximately 2 miles further north on the 101, we turned left onto a non-descript road, County Road D7 aka: Requa Road, and wound our way up the mountain past historic Requa Inn where the road name changes to Patrick J Murphy Memorial Drive.  The drive takes you about 2 miles up the mountain to the Klamath River Overlook and a small parking area containing a few commercial binoculars, benches for sitting and an eco-friendly restroom.  Our newly found friends were absolutely correct… the views of the Klamath River mouth area were spectacular!  Not to mention all of the folks fishing for salmon on this particular day.  We spent a good 15mins just soaking up the view before heading back down the mountain and onto 101N.

Side Note:  The town of Requa (pronounced Rek-wah) was a bustling fishing center on the Klamath River in the late 1800s when a hotel was first constructed to serve the Klamath's numerous fish canneries. Although the bustling commercial center is now a sleepy village in the Redwood National Park, the Historic Requa Inn has been a feature of the area for almost 100 years. Built in 1914, the plain, almost utilitarian arts and crafts Bed and Breakfast continues to be a special place today. And this is a special place. Since time immemorial the Yurok people have had a village at Rek-woi - making Requa one of the longest, continuously inhabited places in California.  The Inn is in the heart of a series of co-managed redwood parks that have been declared both an International Biosphere Reserve and World Heritage Site.

Not long after we’d turned onto 101N we saw a sign to the Trees of Mystery just a couple of miles up the road, still part of Klamath, and we immediately decided to stop in and visit.  This particular tourist attraction located on the eastern side of the 101 is hard to miss.  There are 2 gigantic wooden sculptures of Paul Bunyan and his blue Ox, Babe, adjacent to the expansive parking lot.  Rosie and I spent a good 20mins just wandering around outside and inside the gift shop taking a few photos here and there.  We did not partake of any of the offered tours on this day.  We still had a ways to go on this day.

Side Note:  Trees of Mystery is a roadside attraction and "tourist trap" in Klamath, California, about 35 miles south of the Oregon border. This private enterprise, founded in 1931, is located adjacent to US Highway 101 on private land surrounded by Redwood National and State Parks. The property contains towering redwoods and a number of unique tree formations, many of which can be seen from the "Trail of Mysterious Trees." The "Trail of Tall Tales" features some 50 chain-saw sculptures and carvings illustrating the imaginative stories about Paul Bunyan and his logging crew. The "Cathedral Tree", nine trees growing in a semicircle out of one root structure, is sometimes used for outdoor weddings.  Trees of Mystery is best known for the 49-foot-tall statue of Paul Bunyan and the 35-foot-tall Babe the Blue Ox, both of which are visible from Highway 101.  Constructed largely of wooden beams, chicken wire and stucco, the current Babe was built in 1950 and the current Bunyan was built in 1961. The original Bunyan was built in 1946 but was destroyed by rain that winter.  In late 2007, the 1000-pound, 9-foot-wide head of Babe fell to the ground as a result of rotting materials damaged from rain. The head has since been replaced. The attraction also features The End of the Trail Museum, a large private collection of Native American art, crafts and tools. In 2001 an aerial tramway was installed called the Skytrail.  It takes visitors to an observation deck where they can enjoy a view of the Pacific Ocean and surrounding forest.

Our next pass through point and last significant waypoint in California was Crescent City, just 20miles south of the Oregon border.  I mention Crescent City because we found a Bank of America, we were running a bit low on cash, and stopped in to top off.  We also refueled the SUV here and picked up some road snacks to tide us over until lunch.  Didn’t take too long and we were on our way.  Twenty miles flew by and we crossed into Oregon by mid-morning.  Highway 101 went from being called the Redwood Highway to the Oregon Coast Highway.  Approximately 5 miles into Oregon, we crossed over a bridge spanning the Chetco River into Brookings, Oregon, our first waypoint in the State.  Brookings was a just a pass through for us.  However, as we continued through Brookings, the Pacific Ocean was starting to beckon is to stop and visit somewhere soon.  We’d seen and passed a couple of turn-offs towards the beach and eventually came upon a turn-off about 8miles out of Brookings that we could not pass up. There was a small sign posted marking this particular entry path down to a ‘Whaleshead Beach’.

The road wound down towards the beach and became an unpaved, rutted, rocky path leading to a parking area with an eco-restroom.  We pulled over and joined the 2 other vehicles already there, their occupants were already enjoying the expansive beach.  Like many beaches we’d seen along the Pacific Northwest, this beach had several ‘sea stacks’ or perhaps small islands just offshore.  This beach was also littered with driftwood, had a small stream draining into a tide pool set back from the edge of the beach and, lots of evidence of beach bonfires.  The beach was bounded by a rising cliff to our right as we looked at the ocean, the north side, and the beach appeared to stretch on for quite a ways to our left, to the south.  Interestingly, the beach sand was a very gray color versus white that we were accustomed to.  The water was pretty cold and on the low tide side.  We spent a pleasant 20mins just strolling around and enjoying the atmosphere.  As nice and as the cool as the sea breeze was, I was still feeling a bit under the weather.  Left the beach, jumped back in to the SUV and continued on our way north.

On this particular day, Rosie ended up alternating with me and doing a lot of the driving which allowed me to just chill and enjoy the ride.   Highway 101 in Oregon alternated quite a bit between 2 and 4 lanes with much fewer hair-pin turns along the way making driving a great deal easier and less intense than the PCH headed south out of San Francisco.  Having said that, Rosie and I had become increasingly aware of a growing number of bicyclers along the 101 in Oregon, long distance riders, making their way both north and south.  The scenery along the coast in Oregon is just as striking, albeit not quite the same, as that in California - which is dominated by forests of massive Redwoods.  Pretty sure the environment had something to do with the number of bicyclers we were seeing. 

Side Note:  On our way along the northern California coast, we’d noticed some bicyclers in but, not nearly the numbers we’d passed along the coast road in Oregon.  Most of the bicyclers did not appear to be day riders, just out for a bit of cardiovascular exercise.  These coastal riders appeared to going very long distances and were packing… many of the bikes had saddle bags hanging off the rear tire and some had saddle bags fore and aft.  We were frequently amazed at these riders struggling massively to scale very long, climbing stretches of coastal road.  They couldn’t have been making a ton of miles/day.  We surmised they must have a great passion for the sport of cycling.

When we were leaving Whaleshead Beach, we didn’t realize that we’d end up driving a good 125miles or so before taking a break – a pretty long, non-stop stretch for us.  Coos Bay was our next waypoint ~100 miles north.  This coastal city, largest in Oregon, is nestled along the Coos Bay and River, was just a pass through for us but, exhibited plenty of signs of being a very large logging and lumber town.  We continued on to Reedsport located along the Umpqua River, 27miles north, for a ‘poddy’ break in a McDonald’s.  Found ourselves to be quite ‘peckish’ so, decided to have a guilty pleasure lunch inside the Golden Arches before continuing on our way.  The weather had once again blossomed into a glorious day!

Florence, our next waypoint, was another 22miles ahead.  As we approached Florence we had to cross a beautiful, historic, concrete drawbridge spanning the Suislaw River in to the city:  the Suislaw River Bridge.  Not sure why I was taken with this particular bridge… heck, we’d crossed many other bridges along the way in Oregon.  Most of those bridges were a part of the many towns/cities we had passed through. 

Side Note:  The Siuslaw River Bridge is a bascule bridge that spans the Siuslaw River on U.S. Route 101 in Florence, Oregon. It was designed by Conde McCullough, built by the Mercer-Fraser Company of Eureka, California, and funded by the Federal Emergency Administration of Public Works (later renamed the Public Works Administration). It opened in 1936.  The bridge's total length is 1,568 feet (478 m). When open, the 140-foot (43 m) double-leaf bascule provides 110 feet (34 m) of horizontal clearance for boat traffic. The bascule section is flanked by two 154-foot (47 m) reinforced concrete tied arches, identical to those used in the original Alsea Bay Bridge. Four Art Deco-style obelisks house mechanical equipment as well as living quarters for the bridge operator. The total cost of the bridge was $527,000.  The bridge was added to the National Register of Historic Places on August 5, 2005

While we were driving through Florence, we noticed signs for the Heceta Head Lighthouse and, even though the day was drawing down, decided to stop in at Heceta Head Lighthouse State Scenic Viewpoint.  Located approximately 11 miles north of Florence, you get to the State Park by exiting right off of the 101 and doing a big, descending right hand turn under a bridge that makes up a portion of Hwy 101 and, emptying out into a fairly sizable parking lot.  Rosie and I had a nice time hiking up to visit the lighthouse keeper’s house, small gift shop and, the lighthouse itself.

Side NoteHeceta Head Light is a lighthouse located on the Oregon Coast 13 miles (21 km) north of Florence, Oregon and 13 miles (21 km) south of Yachats, Oregon, United States. It is located at Heceta Head Lighthouse State Scenic Viewpoint (a state park) midway up a 205-foot (63 m) tall headland. Built in 1894, the 56-foot (17 m) tall lighthouse shines a beam visible for 21 miles (34 km), making it the strongest light on the Oregon Coast.   The light is maintained by the Oregon Parks and Recreation Department, while the assistant lighthouse keepers' house, operated as a bed and breakfast, is maintained by the U.S. Forest Service. The lighthouse is 2 miles (3.2 km) away from Sea Lion Caves.

Spent a good 45mins enjoying the lighthouse and gorgeous views of the water, beach and bridge.  On the way back down the small mountain path towards the parking area, we stopped into the gift shop and made a few purchases before heading back out on the road.  Our daylight was starting to wane and we still had a good 60+ miles to go.  The remainder of our drive was uneventful and we hit the outskirts of Lincoln City by 1745.  Rosie and I didn’t appreciate it at the time but, when we first pulled off of the 101 and into what we thought was the heart of Lincoln City, we were actually at the southern end of the city with Siletz Bay opening up to the south and its entrance within easy view to the west.

Really didn’t have a good idea of where we were in the city so, just headed towards the water and an area that looked interesting.  We just happened upon a road fronting the top of Siletz Bay with at least 1 restaurant right on the water and across from a small inn that had a vacancy sign posted for $99 rooms for rent.  We’d stumbled onto a wonderful place to spend our Tuesday evening:  the Looking Glass Inn.  Parked and went inside.  The young ladies working the front desk were great and when I ‘yelped’ a $10 coupon for the hotel, they were happy to honor it!  Room 107 was to be ours for the evening and we hurriedly unloaded the SUV and got the room squared away before we set out to do a bit of exploring around the inn.

The Looking Glass Inn is located on a road, Southwest 51st Street, which just loops around and goes back out to the 101.  There are a few eating places nearby with ‘Mo’s’ being the largest and most popular.  Most of the parking available is used by folks coming to eat at Mo’s or to enjoy the sandy beaches fronting Mo’s and some of the other vacation properties lining the top of Siletz Bay.  Quite a few of the folks fishing on this particular evening were casting as close to the entrance of the bay as possible.  At the end of the street where the road loops around, there’s some fishing sculptures and a covered pavilion where people could have picnics.  Like all the other beaches we’d visited to date, this one was littered with all sizes and kinds of driftwood and you could see the evidence of bonfires here and there.  Mo’s Restaurant is a good size and has a pier attached to it that juts out into Siletz Bay that is used for fishing and watching the sea life.  It was low tide at the moment and the bay appears to be relatively shallow here at the top end.  Tons of birds including seagulls and pterodactyls (pelicans) were flying or rousting around.  Items in the shallow waters of the bay that initially appeared to be floating debris, were actually sea lions just lounging around… Rosie was enthralled.

There was no question that we’d have dinner at Mo’s and, that’s where we walked over and in to by 1900.  When you walk into Mo’s there’s an open area gift shop to the left, the checkout counter immediately to the right and the kitchen just beyond that.  Plenty of seating throughout the restaurant and wrap around windows east, south and west, so that regardless of where you sat, there’s was a great view of the bay.  We were seated at a round table in the southwest corner with a great view to the setting sun with the silhouettes of the dozen or so folks fishing on the beach between the sun and our vantage point.  Rosie had the fish tacos and I went with a burger and ‘Mo fries’, served with Ranch dressing.  The food was fine and went down quite easily with the beer I enjoyed and the glass of wine Rosie had.  After chow, we did do some shopping… Rosie bought a very pretty piece of wood with a salmon painted on it and I bought a miniature shoe for my Yamaha vStar 1100 key ring and smashed a penny or two.

After dinner Rosie and I strolled around the beach enjoying the sun set, low tide and a big, bright almost full moon.  Most of the folks who’d been fishing had packed up and left.  The beach was mostly deserted and you had to be a bit careful dodging some of the bigger pieces of driftwood.  We really liked what we’d stumbled on to here in Lincoln City.  Made our way casually back to our room to chill for the evening, do a little note taking for this blog and to do some trip planning for what was shaping up to be a busy Wednesday in Oregon.

What a good, long day we’ve had!  This would end up being our longest driving day of the trip at ~350miles from Eureka, CA, to Lincoln City, OR.

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